The Best Onigiri Are All About the Rice

At these Los Angeles spots, creative Japanese rice balls inspired by home cooking are made to order.

Onigiri: Rice Is Life

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By Tejal Rao

LOS ANGELES — I get loyalty cards from nail salons, coffee shops and carwashes, but the only one I can ever keep safe is from Jichan’s Onigiri-ya in Monterey Park. The busy rice ball shop sells warm, tender, generously filled onigiri shaped to order, and after collecting 10 stamps on its cards of goofy, grinning, cartoon onigiri, diners get a single rice ball on the house.

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